Archive for the ‘Motors’ Category

10 Safety Checks to Do on Your Snowmobile Trailer

Friday, January 17th, 2014

You know what happens in winter. Before you know it, the ground is all covered with white stuff. We’re always looking forward to getting our trail pass and make our mark in the fresh snow. The prepping always involves making sure that we will be able to safely transport our sleds to and from our beloved trail sans mishaps along the way.

Here are 10 safety checks to do before hitting the road:

  1. Ensure that the vehicle you use to tow the snowmobile trailer is equipped properly.
  2. You must look into the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) regardless of whether you own a towing vehicle or not. This is the weight of your trailer when fully loaded.
  3. You should know how to properly hitch your trailer. A reliable trailer dealership will teach you how it is properly done.
  4. Every light must be thoroughly checked, the vehicle’s and the trailer’s alike. By doing so, people driving around you will easily see your vehicle and snowmobile trailer.
  5. Meticulously look into the braking systems and buy a breakaway switch kit that will aid in stopping the trailer should it get separated from your towing vehicle while you’re on the road.
  6. See to it that the tires on your trailer are properly filled with air and that they are the correct tire size. Also see to it that bolts and lug nuts are tight and in place.
  7. As you load your trailer, take into consideration the weight distribution. If you overload any given side, it can affect steering and control.
  8. Secure your snowmobile on tie-down tracks and make sure that D-rings or ski bars hold the sleds safely in place.
  9. Make a safety kit that has flares, road hazard sides, wheel chocks, jacks as well as spare tires.
  10. Check that the mirrors from your towing vehicle has visual clearance around the trailer before traveling.

Solve Two Snow Blower Problems

Friday, December 27th, 2013

Problem #1: The smoking belt and impeller won’t engage.

No snow is coming out of the chute but the belt squeals or smokes.

What you do: Release that handle and turn the snow blower off. If it has a full tank, place some plastic with a grocery bag under the filler cap to keep the gas from dripping directly from the cap vent. Reach in back to the second stage impeller, which is the 3 or 4 bladed fan responsible for throwing the snow out of the chute on a two stage snow blower. If you can’t turn it, check if it’s frozen to the bottom of the drum. For the most part, there’s a drain hole in the bottom of the drum to keep this from happening. However, that doesn’t always suffice. In some cases, the impeller blade coasts to a stop with one of the blades straight down, making it all the easier to freeze.

How to repair: Bring the snow blower to a warm place where you can thaw it. You can also use a hair dryer. Or, make a tent using a tarp above the snow blower and create some warm air with a space heater. Direct the heat from the space heater into the auger area of the snow blower.  Caveat: use extra caution with the proximity of the heater and the direction you point it. A space heater could melt plastic parts or even ignite the tarp.

Prevention: Get rid of the snow off the snow blower and inside the impeller/auger housing every after usage. Then, see to it that no impeller blade is pointing down to where the melted snow can puddle and freeze.

Problem #2: Auger or wheel drive handle won’t employ

This happens most often on models with cables as compared to linkage.

What you do: The cable gets moisture inside and tends to freeze. In case you don’t have cables, follow the linkage to a pivot point which is frozen. This could call for removing an access cover. Thaw out cables or linkage with the same method you use in a frozen impeller with properly applied heat.

Prevention:  Take off both ends of the cable and apply a low temperature or white lithium grease. Work the cable back and forth in an effort to coat the entire length.  It’s also possible to spray WD-40 into the cable.  This may help for a while but will not last as long as the grease.  Do not use ball bearing grease as this will not work properly in the cold temperatures.  You must use a low temperature grease.

Snow Blower Repair Issues

Friday, December 6th, 2013

Snow blowers help us dodge some troubles. However, like any other tools or machines, things don’t always go their way. Here are some of the most common hiccups with snow blowers and how to fix them:

Engine Doesn’t Start
If you have already primed the motor of your engine and it still won’t start, see to it that the choke is in the right position, the safety key should be fully inserted, there’s gasoline in the tank, and the spark plug must not be fouled. If everything seems to be okay, it could be that the gasoline has gone bad. Fuel goes stale within months, so fill it up with new gas. If the gas tank is full, drain it and re-fill with fresh fuel.

The Engine Suddenly Stops Running
The engine, all of a sudden, loses power. What do you do? You make sure that the spark plug wire is securely connected to the spark plug. If it still doesn’t work, check the gas cap. The gas cap is vented and if ice or snow causes blockage, the unit will lose power. Give it another shot after getting rid of anything that’s there.

It Does Not Discharge Snow
Your snow thrower’s discharge chute can get clogged, and there could be myriads of reasons behind it. One of which could be the snow itself. Moving slushy snow via a snow thrower’s auger can be compared to making a snow ball using your hands. Moving and compacting the snow will turn it to ice, and this clogs up the chute. As a remedy, make use of the tool’s clean-out tool, if any, to get rid of the obstruction from the chute. You can also go for a stick. See to it that you shut the unit down and disconnect the spark plug prior to doing this process. A foreign object could also be lodged in the auger. Power the unit down and get rid of the obstruction.

Unit Jerks and Grabs While Running
Snow throwers are most efficient when the blade is able to ride across the ground and get under the snow. However, sidewalk are often riddled with dimples, cracks and pockmarks. When your machine is moving a tad too quickly, and an irregularity occurs, it could bounce up a bit and snow could get lodged under the blade. This may bring about jerking or stuttering. The remedy: slow down.

However, if the irregularity is remarkable, such as an uneven slab, the blade simply jams into it and your machine could be prevented from moving forward at all. Again, slowing down is key. The blade stays in contact with the ground, and it won’t take on more snow than it’s able to handle. In this case it can catch and eject the snow efficiently.

All that being said, keep your shovel available. Even though you have a snow thrower, you should not kick your shovel to the curb. You still need it when you have to attack the steps and nooks where your muscled-up snow thrower can’t go.

The Baldor-Reliance Super-E

Friday, August 19th, 2011

In the mid-1970s, a southeastern tire manufacturing plant asked Baldor if it were possible to increase the operating efficiencies of motors in their plants. Baldor engineers determined that considerable energy savings could be gained from a better motor design. By adding more copper to the windings, upgrading the laminations to a higher premium-grade steel, designing precision air gaps between the rotor and stator, and reducing fan losses in the motor, Baldor was able to supply the plant with the premium efficient motors it needed.

This was the birth of the Baldor Super-E®. Today’s upgraded and expanded Super-E product line offers some of the highest levels of efficiency in more than 600 stock motors rated from 1/2 to 15,000 horsepower. Super-E, severe duty, close-coupled pump, IEEE 841, washdown, and explosion-proof models are also available with a three-year warranty or better. (Our IEEE 841 motors have a five-year warranty.) Called a “key breakthrough” by the Consortium of Energy Efficiency, the Baldor Super-E was recognized by the CEE in 1998 as the first premium efficiency motor line to meet their stringent efficiency criteria citing, “For the first time, one manufacturer will carry all qualifying products.” In 2001, the CEE efficiency levels were adopted as the NEMA Premium® efficient levels and expanded to 500 horsepower.

 Premium Efficiency Pays for Itself

To understand what a motor really costs, compare initial purchase price with the cost of theelectricity it uses over its working lifetime. Often, too much attention is paid to purchase price. For most motors, this initial cost represents less than two percent of its lifetime cost. Electricity accounts for about 97 percent. Baldor Electric Company’s motors and drives save customers money every minute they operate. Whether it’s lower energy costs or greater reliability, these savings go straight to the bottom line. Baldor is the industry leader in overall efficiency ratings. Better than 96 percent of the energy used by some of Baldor’s Super-E motors is converted to mechanical work. The Baldo•Reliance Super-E runs cooler and longer with greater reliability than any other industrial motor. When you consider that a typical 50 horsepower motor costs over $36,000 to operate continuously in a year, it’s easy to see how just a few percentage points of higher efficiency can quickly reduce electricity costs. Even seemingly modest percentage point differences in efficiency ratings can yield substantial electricity cost savings when the motor is operating continuously every day.

Baldor Electric Company — First in Energy since 1920

Tuesday, August 16th, 2011

The history of energy efficiency in industrial motors is really the story of Baldor Electric Company. For almost 100 years, Baldor has led the industry in developing products that deliver greater performance and reliability while using less electricity. From the company’s founding in the 1920s through today, Baldor has introduced one efficiency enhancing advancement after another. In fact, many of the advancements initiated by Baldor have later been adopted as industry standards.

The issue of energy efficiency for electric motors and drives is becoming increasingly relevant as electricity costs continue to rise. Companies are now competing in an environment of rising energy costs and the uncertainty of available electricity. These dynamics require the kind of forward-thinking industrial motor, drive, and generator supplier that anticipates customer needs and delivers products that save money and improve productivity. That company is Baldor.


Why is Energy Efficiency Important?

Electric motor-driven systems used in industrial processes consume some 679 billion kWh or 63 percent of all electricity used in U.S. industry, according to a Department of Energy report published in 1998. The report goes on to reveal that industrial motor electricity consumption could be reduced by up to 18 percent if companies were to apply “proven efficiency technologies and practices.” Specifically, the DOE recommends motor efficiency upgrades and application improvements. The purpose of this brochure is to show you the energy saving opportunities from using premium efficient motors and drives. The opportunities are real.

In 1992, the Energy Policy Act (EPAct) established minimum efficiency standards for industrial electric motors built after October 1997. Yet, only about 10 percent of all motors in use today comply with the minimum efficiency levels the Act mandates. When you factor in the savings potential of using adjustable speed drives in many applications, it’s easy to see that the environment, along with your profitability, stand to benefit significantly.